Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
